Text and pictures by Robert Baldwin |
Flat, glistening, tranquil. Not the desert of Arabia, but the Gulf of Oman, rich in nutrients, a bounty of natural resources. Among them, the Sultanate's cetaceans, a well-kept secret of scientific, cultural and aesthetic appeal. Robert Baldwin is an accomplished diver and marine biologist who has co-authored a guide to skin-diving in Oman. He has taken a particular interest in Arabia's rich cetacean fauna, of which the spinner dolphin is one of the most spectacular, at least in terms of their antics. There is a relative lack of knowledge of whales and dolphins found around the Arabian peninsula, a myriad of unanswered questions surrounding each of the 15 species so far identified. And yet, if revealed, the few facts known would surely generate a tidal wave of interest and attention. The story of the spinner dolphin (Stenella longirostris), an agile acrobat, abundant and commonly seen in the calm waters of the Gulf of Oman, hints at the substance of Arabia's cetacean secret. THE NATURAL ARENA Groups of up to 1,000 spinner dolphins have been observed along the Gulf of Oman coast, and smaller groups of three or four hundred are regularly encountered. Only a handful of private boat owners venture out to watch, as streamlined shapes dart to the bow-waves of their boats, sometimes remaining with a chosen craft for several hours. Underwater, patient snorkellers are ap-proached with caution and curiosity, and regaled with the staccato music of resonant clicks, pulses, squeaks and whistles that forms their characteristic call-sign. Before long, normal behaviour resumes, with much nudging and caressing, and frequent coupling. Very young dolphins swim shielded by an ever-present mother or "baby-sitter" whom they will stay alongside for two or more years before they venture out to make their own way in the school. MIXED RELATIVES AND FISHY FRIENDS Seen for the first time in Oman's waters in May 1993, pan tropical spotted dolphins (Stenella attenuata) are now also known to school with spinner and common dolphins, making a threesome of related species, about which little is known. It is possible that mixed schools of this type are more common further offshore. However, it is the spinner dolphins association with another kind of animal that has earned it a place in Oman's rich culture. Local, traditional fishermen respect and revere "hout", "the dolphin that spins". Some even talk of the dolphins as if they were deceased relatives. Without them, locating and keeping track of tuna, a fish fetching one of the highest prices at the local 'suq', would be virtually impossible. Standing at the bows of their boats, fishermen can scan the horizon for a tell-tale splash or the arch of a glinting back in the dawn light. Then, racing ahead of a dolphin school, fishermen sink their baited hooks, wrapped around and weighted by a stone attached by means of a slip-knot. Long ago, trial and error taught them that the tuna are to be found feeding below the dolphins. The bait falls through the water, glistening and glinting enticingly as the line unravels, until, with a sharp tug, the stone is released, leaving the baited hook free. Tuna invariably succumb to the fisherman's tactic, which the dolphins seem able to foresee. However, nets, once traditionally woven, now bought with government subsidy, are also set to catch tuna. It is a sad and well rehearsed irony that the "hout", which by its high spins and graceful leaps signals to the fishermen the presence of their livelihood, also, all too often, becomes entangled in the monofilament, virtually invisible, netting. The death of spinner dolphins, and indeed of all cetaceans, largely passes unnoticed, except perhaps for the fisherman's family, who may decide to utilise the carcasses as fertiliser for their date palms. SANCTUARY TO A NEW SPECIES A SPINNING WHEEL OF TALES |
Arabian Wildlife. Volume 1, Number 1 |
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