Rob Baldwin Pictures by Hanne & Jens Eriksen |
Oman can offer a compelling sense of exploration and discovery, and a wildlife holiday that few would imagine possible. Tourism aimed specifically at those interested in the natural environment, or eco-tourism, may be the keystone to the future of the industry in Oman. Thoughtfully planned and carefully managed it will allow for the generation of revenue without clashing with conservation concerns and cultural heritage. The stark beauty and wide range of contrasting landscapes that
characterize the country create habitats for a wealth of wildlife.
Among the variety of fauna and flora are millions of migrant wading
birds passing through year after year; entire marine ecosystems
unique to science; mountain, desert and shoreline plants of stunning
diversity; desert dwellers of surprising abundance; endangered
Arabian mammals like leopard and oryx; seashells of exquisite
nature; coral reefs that stud the sea with vibrant colours; innumerable
endemic fish; whales and dolphins from coast to coast and turtles
that nest in numbers matched by no other country on the planet.
And alongside the natural wealth is a culture as rich as the sea,
mountain and desert environments with which it has arisen. The Mountainous North To access many of the areas where wildlife is more commonly encountered means leaving your vehicle and continuing on foot. Blue-headed agamid lizards will scurry from sun-drenched rocks at your approach and 'water snakes' (most commonly, racers) will lie in wait in, or at the edge of, pools for unsuspecting fish, other reptiles, Arabian toads and even rodents that dare to venture to the water's edge to drink. Bats can be found in many of the extensive cave systems and birds of prey such as Egyptian Vultures and, for the lucky, Golden Eagles, circle above magnificent mountain panoramas. A trip to see the remarkable juniper forests at the 3000 metre summit of Jabal Shams ('Sun Mountain') is well worth the effort, if only to take in the breathtaking views on top of Arabia's highest peak. Here is one of the few places in the peninsula where snowfall is not unexpected in winter months. Visitors to Oman's northern mountains should also keep a vigilant eye open for the nimble-footed tahr, a rare and shy goat-like animal confined and unique to this small, mountainous part of the world. Deserts White Oryx Project Dhofar The capital of the southern region of Dhofar is Salalah, known throughout Arabia as 'The Garden City'. It has the feel of a small East African coastal town, relaxed, cool and humid and rife with banana, coconut, sugarcane and papaya plantations. Beyond the plains of Salalah where frankincense trees grow, rise the wooded hillsides of Jabal Qara. The vegetation that clads the southern mountains is unique in Arabia. The dominant and endemic Anogeissus dhofarica was only scientifically described in 1979 despite its abundance. Among the vegetation are trees more commonly associated with Africa and Asia, such as the enormous and bizarre baobab. There is a population of about 50 baobab trees growing on the sloping valleys of Wadi Hinna, not far from Salalah. Perhaps these are a relict population of a once wider distribution of the species or perhaps they are a reminder of early traders from East Africa. The desert rose is an attractive and distinctive plant which was used for medicinal purposes by the Jibbali people of the Dhofar hills Although there are no permanent watercourses in Dhofar, during the monsoon great waterfalls tumble over limestone cliffs into the sea several hundred feet below, and springs such as those at Ayn Razat and Ayn Jarsis bubble with freshwater. Pools remain in many of the wadi beds long after water has ceased to flow, and, some, such as Wadi Darbat, contain a constant supply of water for resident and passing wildlife. Heading east from Salalah, monsoon clouds quickly disperse as they spill over the mountain tops of the Jabal Samhan. Similarly, Jabal al Qamar to the west only enjoys monsoon mists and rains during exceptional years. However, even where the greenery ends, wildlife thrives. Leopard, caracal, hyaena, wolf and ratel all find territories along with many others. Hedgehogs and the nocturnal vegetarian porcupines leave evidence of their presence with a handful of shed quills, and birds pass through in their thousands. Where wadis reach the sea, lagoons, or khors, form along the coast, acting as a focal point for wildlife, especially birds. Reeds and reedmace typically line the landward rims of the khors while the salt tolerant mangrove trees spread to seaward in more saline conditions. Some of the more spectacular birds to frequent Oman are to be found in khors. The stately flamingo filters food from the shallow sediments, colourful ducks, storks, stilts, plovers, sandpipers, egrets and herons wade nearby and the glossy ibis feeds on insects at the water's edge. Some of the khors are set aside as reserve areas where visitors are not allowed. However, the majority will remain open to the public provided that due care and respect is paid to the wildlife and its fragile habitat. To the north-east of Salalah, still in the southern province of Dhofar, is a beautiful sand beach 30 km in length that sweeps the bay that is the mouth of Oman's largest and probably most spectacular wadi - Wadi Shuwaymiyah. The wadi forms a huge snaking canyon, sided by dramatic vertical cliffs of white limestone. Long fingers of porous travertine form stalactites along overhanging cliff edges and deep permanent pools of sweet water are advertised by the growth of surrounding vegetation. The scenery is fascinating and quite breath-taking and the canyons form a natural refuge for wildlife and may be considered a valuable national nature reserve. Hyrax, a colonial rodent-like animal that through its bone structure shows a common ancestry with elephant and rhinoceros, will issue its warning to others on the approach of human visitors and dart into the many nooks and crannies between boulders on the canyon floors. Hyaena, ibex and gazelle are among many other mammals to be seen and Green Pigeons can be found roosting in wild fig trees, while owls call at night. Wadi Shuwaymiyah lies in a remote and difficult region to access. Perhaps this is fortunate, for the wealth of natural beauty may remain relatively untouched and undisturbed. The coast of Dhofar boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the Sultanate. At certain times of the year many of these beaches are criss-crossed by the tracks of turtles that return seasonally to nest. The beaches below the spectacular headlands and cliffs of Ra'as Hamar, just half an hour's drive west of Salalah, is one spot where it is possible, in late summer months, to watch both green and loggerhead turtles nesting simultaneously. Turtle -Watching Permits are provided by the Ministry of Regional Municipalities and Environment for camping in the Ra's al Hadd area, which has been designated a national nature reserve. The campsite to which visitors are restricted is situated at two of the prime nesting beaches. Turtle -watching tourists are guided by locally employed turtle wardens from nearby villages, such as Ra's al Junays. Rules and regulations are designed to prevent disturbance of the globally endangered turtles, but still allow for good viewing. The sight of a full grown female turtle emerging from the sea to lay her eggs as her ancestors have been doing for the past 90 million years, is an exciting experience that is not easily forgotten. Photography is encouraged only at dawn, using natural lighting so as to avoid disturbance to both nesters and hatchlings. The best months of the year to watch turtles are August and September. Nesting numbers are high and the chance of seeing hatchlings is also very good. However, it is unlikely that you will be disappointed at any time of the year. Underwater Oman Eco-tourism in Oman We should all remember our responsibility to protect Oman's wildlife and its range of valuable habitats. As a country new to the concept of eco-tourism, both the environment and the culture of a distinct and deserving people require time to adapt to the pressures that are inevitably forced upon them by the tourism industry. Those people fortunate enough to explore the Sultanate today will be the first to acknowledge the need to protect the fragile ecosystems and the sensitive culture of a beautiful country for those who will explore and enjoy it in the future. Useful Addresses for The Sultanate of Oman All of the tour companies in the Sultanate should be aware of the rules and regulations governing wildlife observation and visits to protected areas, but there is really only one that is especially interested and educated in eco-tourism. Aries Tours, run by Heide Biel from the Al Falaj hotel ( P O Box 2031, Ruwi 112. Tel 968- 702311), is extremely well equipped to cater for almost any of the varied preferences of wildlife enthusiasts. The Historical Association of Oman (PO. Box 3941, Ruwi 112, Oman) is a non-governmental organization that has a special interest in the natural history of the Sultanate. They will also be able to direct you to specialiast organizations such as the Horticultural Society, P O Box 1591, CPO 111, Oman. Tel 968- 797252. Birdwatchers can obtain information and copies of the Oman Bird List from the Oman Bird Records Committee, P O Box 246, Muscat 113, Oman. The Oman Natural History Museum (ONHM) (P O Box 668, Muscat 113, Oman; Tel 968-605400) houses
superb displays of most of the wildlife to be found in Oman, including
a section on marine fauna and flora and a separate and outstanding
whale hall. A newly formed volunteer whale rescue team, contactable
through ONHM, may be able to provide additional information on
where and when to watch whales and dolphins at sea. The Arabian Seas Expedition has produced a half hour film on diving in Oman, aimed at the diving tourist. Films are available from P O Box 50119, Medinat Qaboos 115, Oman; Tel 968-736230 or through the Directorate General of Tourism, P O Box 550, Muscat 113, Oman; Tel 968- 774331. |
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