Bahrain has long been an important maritime trade centre linking

Europe and the Middle East with the Indian subcontinent. Pearling

has come and gone, oil reserves are dwindling. As a result Bahrain

has had to diversify and is now a banking and industrial centre.

More recently it has allocated increasing resources to develop

its tourist industry and considerable efforts are being made to

attract visitors from around the world. Greater awareness of the

many opportunities available for tourists to experience Bahrain’s

natural heritage can only lend weight to this effort.

Bahrain is an archipelago situated in the shallow waters of the

Gulf of Salwa in the northern Arabian Gulf. Named Dilmun in earlier

times, it is often associated with the legend of the Garden of

Eden and sometimes referred to as ‘The Pearl of the Gulf’. Its

northern and western shores appear oasis-like in this desolate

and arid region, their fertility relying upon subterranean aquifers

which draw freshwater from the huge underground aquifers of Saudi

Arabia. Whilst the lush northern region harbours a wealth of wildlife,

interest lies mainly in Bahrain’s muddy eastern shores, host to

thousands of migrating shorebirds, its scrub desert areas which

support a number of specially adapted species of plant and animal,

its offshore islands which are home to a number of rare and endangered

species, and its shallow saline coastal waters which support a

rich marinelife including dugong, green turtle and sea snakes.

Coastal Areas

The east coast has extensive but diminishing mudflats which were

recently discovered to be of international importance as a wintering

ground for wading birds. The autumn migration, which begins in

late July and continues through to early October, produces large

numbers and a wide variety of waders, with over 40 species recorded.

Of particular ornithological interest are Broad-billed Sandpiper,

Curlew Sandpiper, Little and Temnicks Stints, Greater and Lesser

Sandplover and Bar-tailed Godwit. Most of the productive mudflats

are easily accessible and can be surveyed from a car. A four-wheel-drive

vehicle is rarely necesssary in these areas. Good views of a wide

variety of shorebirds may be had at various parts of Tubli Bay

and the coast alongside the causeway which joins Muharraq island

with the ASRY drydock. The shallows between the BAPCO refinery

and The Bahrain Yacht Club are often productive.

Further south along the east coast the numbers of waders decrease

but a regular flock of up to 60 Greater Flamingos may be seen

all year between the Yacht Club and Jau village to the south.

During the summer months, White-cheeked Terns numbering 2-3000

breeding pairs nest in a colony on the south-west coast, well

inside the restricted area. Lesser numbers also nest on some of

the offshore islets. A small number of Saunders Little Terns breed

on an east coast islet. This species is threatened by habitat

destruction and its numbers are decreasing.

 

Plantation and Cultivated Areas

The northern cultivated areas are very productive for migrating

passerines. Gardens and plantations are easily reached by exploring

the myriad small roads and tracks which criss-cross these areas.

Most of the gardens and plantations are on private land but a

polite enquiry will nearly always result in permission from the

hospitable Bahraini people to look around. On the road from Awali

to Zellaq there are mesquite plantations near the racecourse at

Sakhir. During the spring these can hold hundreds of migrating

passerines which can be easily viewed from the car. The racecourse

itself has a lake to which duck are often attracted since it is

one of the few remaining freshwater areas on the island. Some

species of Marsh Tern may also be seen dancing over the surface

of the water. Rufous Bushchat, White-cheeked Bulbul, Graceful

Warbler, Ring-necked Parakeet, and Olivaceous Warbler breed in

the green areas. Migrant passerines of interest include various

wheatears, White-throated Robin, Redstart, Red-backed, Isabelline,

Lesser Gray, Woodchat and, less commonly, Masked Shrike. A Bahrain

speciality in winter is the regular roost of up to 500 Grey Hypocolius

which frequent the palms and mesquites in the Maqabah area. These

birds arrive in mid-October and leave in mid-February.

Reedbeds and Ditches

Unfortunately, very few of these productive habitats still exist.

Many of the freshwater ditches have now been filled in and built

upon so that the colourful sight of a wintering kingfisher is

not as common as it once was. Those remaining are a haven for

several species of dragonflies and marsh frogs and often provide

good views of Indian grey mongoose. Terrapins have become increasingly

rare. The reedbeds at Janibiya provide views of various crakes,

water rails, waders, Common, Jack and occasionally Painted Snipe.

Great Reed Warblers and Penduline Tits are regular but uncommon.

Little Bittern and Squacco Heron are frequently seen and the former

breed at other reedbeds on the island such as UBF stream. Janibiya

reedbeds have recently been walled off but are still accessible

to the keen watcher by a rather more tortuous route. Hopefully

this will provide more protection to this productive area, unless

there are plans to develop it.

Mangroves

The stands of dwarf mangrove at Sanad at the southern end of Tubli

Bay are now protected but are still subject to illegal rubbish

dumping and landfill. This rich tidal habitat, a nursery ground

for many species of fish and crustaceans, was the first recorded

breeding site for the Black-winged Stilt in Bahrain and numbers

seem to be increasing. Good numbers of herons roost here during

the winter months and species include Grey Heron, Little Egret

and Black-crowned Night Heron. At high tide during passage times

this is a location to observe waders including Greater and Lesser

Sandplover, Curlew Sandpiper and Kentish Plover in large numbers,

as well as many other species as singles. At appropriate times

of year Saunder’s Little Terns and various Marsh Terns patrol

the tidal channels. Despite its protected status this rich area

is currently under threat of destruction.

The Desert

Bahrain’s scrub desert hosts a relatively impoverished flora and

fauna. The most common plant here is the bean caper (Zygophillum

qatarense) , a low succulent bush which shows a number of desert

adaptations. In January the beautiful parasitic desert hyacinth

begins to force its way through the ground. If there has been

a reasonable amount of rainfall during the winter the spring months

bring a welcome floral display in parts of the desert. Colourful

additions are red lantern, asphodel and red thumb.

Resident birds of these arid parts are rather dull and include

Desert Lark, Crested Lark and Hoopoe Lark. A welcome splash of

avian colour is added by migrating birds such as Bee-eater, Hoopoe,

and Roller. Good numbers of the vulnerable Lesser Kestrel join

kestrels passing through the desert and onwards if they manage

to avoid being trapped and sold in the markets. Reptiles are most

evident in the shape of the spiny-tailed lizard which is to be

found in large numbers during the hotter parts of the year sitting

atop a mound close to their burrows. Careful searching may locate

the colourful Jayakar’s agama perched on top of one of the small

desert bushes. Mammals are not well represented. Cape hare and

long-eared desert hedgehog may be found after a careful search.

Lesser three-toed jerboas are common but usually only seen occassionally

and fleetingly in the car headlights unless specifically looked-for.

The Arabian sand gazelle is mainly restricted to the southern

desert and the population exceeds 100 individuals. A group of

about 30 can sometimes be seen west of the Tree of Life, and some

have recently been venturing as far north as the area west and

north of the Jebel ad Dukhan, where they are fed near a small

goat farm. Their pale coloration allows them to blend into the

background and they may only be noticed when they move.

Offshore Islands

The offshore islands, easily accessible by power boat, offer little

in the way of terrestrial wildlife. Often small, they become crowded

with pleasure boaters at weekends, reducing their attractiveness

as wildlife sites. However, between the mainland and such small

islets there are regular schools of humpbacked, common and bottlenose

dolphins. Humpbacked dolphins are reliably seen adjacent to the

deep-water channel running out from the Bahrain Yacht Club to

the BAPCO wharf just beyond the Al Dar Islands. Whilst not as

tame as some other dolphins, with care and patience, they can

be approached very closely. Further south in the area between

the small island of Um Jalid and the Hawar Islands there are extensive

sea grass beds which provide feeding grounds for large groups

of dugong. This population has been little studied and its movements

are not well known. Information is coming to light which suggests

that they may be found in the area between the months of October

and May. Any other information on this population is eagerly sought

by the authors. Sea snakes of various species are common in the

waters off Bahrain and are often seen in large numbers.

The Hawar Islands, 20 kms to the south-east of mainland Bahrain,

form a rich and interesting area, topographically quite unlike

that of the parent island. Made up of a group of 16 islands, some

flat and some with low but steep cliffs falling to the sea, Hawar

is home to some locally rare avian species. Eight to ten pairs

of the beautiful Sooty Falcon nest on the cliff ledges between

August and October each year. The flat island of Sowad al Janibiyah

is the breeding ground of up to 200,000 Socotra Cormorants, between

October and February. These islands also support about a hundred

pairs of Western Reef Herons and Breeding Caspian, Bridled, White-cheeked

and Saunders Little Terns. Add to this a wintering population

of 800 – 1000 Greater Flamingos, up to 25 pairs of ground-nesting

Ospreys, and a stark physical beauty seen nowhere else in Bahrain,

and these islands are well worth visiting (special permission

required).

Recently, arrangements have been made for visitors to visit the

largest of the Hawar islands where they are able to rent fully-equipped

chalets from the Municipality at very reasonable prices. Advanced

reservations are advised by phoning Tel no. 784433. Travel to

the islands is by dhow from the Bahrain mainland, departing from

Dur village at 8.00 a.m. and 11.00 a.m. on Thursdays and returning

on Fridays at 1.00 p.m. and 4.00 p.m. This trip costs around BD3

and can be booked by calling Tel no. 213804.

Visitors are restricted to the main island and any visit to the

outer islands would require special permission. Hawar Island trips

are suspended during the months of December, January and February

due to inclement weather conditions.

Conserved areas

Relatively few areas conserved for their natural history interest

are open to visitors, but with a growing environmental awareness

in Bahrain this is bound to change in the future.

The whole of central and southern Bahrain is a restricted region

which has the effect of protecting the wildlife of this part of

the country. Signs are easily visible on all of the roads south

once the restricted areas is reached. Permission is occasionally

given to visit for the purpose of natural history study.

Al Areen Wildlife Park

This wildlife park was the brainchild of His Highness Shaikh Hamad

bin Isa bin Sulman Al-Khalifa, The Crown Prince of Bahrain. It

is divided into two parts, one of which is open to the public.

The reserve area is off-limits without special permission. Access

to the park is by bus from the main entrance. This takes parties

around a tarmac road from which you are able to obtain good views

of a variey of Arabian mammals, some roaming free and others in

pens. There are also some African animals which remain from the

initial establishment of the park. Arabian species include scimitar-horned

oryx, addax, Arabian oryx, dama gazelle, Nubian ibex, wild goat,

barbary sheep and Asiatic onager. Wild bird species are also attracted

to the park. Near to the administrative building is a walkway

which gives close views of various species of bird and animal.

There are cafeteria facilities here. The park is opened daily

from 8 -11.00 a.m. and 1-4.30 p.m. More information may be obtained

from the park office: Tel 631826.


Useful Addresses for Bahrain

National Committee for the Protection of Wildlife, PO Box 28690, Bahrain.

Tel 0973- 631826; fax: 0973- 631173

Bahrain Natural History Society, P O Box 20336, Bahrain.

The BNHS is an active group with a meeting on the first Tuesday

of the month. Howard King, the bird recorder, is very helpful

and is always up to date with recent bird sightings.

Bahrain Centre for Research and Studies, P O Box 496, Manama,

Bahrain.

Tourism Projects Company organizes a bus tour from Bab Al Bahrain in Manama twice daily,

departing 9.30 a.m and 3.00 p.m.Tel 211025 or 213460.