The unique blend of Palearctic and Ethiopian birds to be found
in the west of the Kingdom provides compelling interest throughout
the year. It is possible to see around 250 bird species annually
in this region of Saudi Arabia, from Jeddah southwards. The breathtaking
scenery, historical interest, superb quiet roads and personal
safety are further incentives to explore and document this little-known
area.
The Tihama
The extensive sandy Tihama plains hold Hoopoe Lark and Black-crowned
Finch Lark, with wintering Desert Wheatear, Isabelline Shrike
and Long-legged Buzzard. Further inland, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse
is the characteristic Tihama bird. Large flocks come in for their
morning drink between 8.00 and 9.00 a.m. at favoured locations
in certain wadis and seasonal ponds. This behaviour is one of
the most spectacular birding sights anywhere – it is amazing to
witness large numbers of birds suddenly appear from various directions
of the surrounding, seemingly barren plains and hills. Cream-coloured
Courser and Steppe Eagles also occur in winter, whilst the areas
around boulder outcrops are good for typical residents, such as
Blackstart, Sand Partridge and even Little Green Bee-eater.
Further south, in the Asir Tihama around Sabya especially, Arabian
Golden Sparrow, Dark Chanting Goshawk and Abyssinian Roller are
additional possibilities. Small flocks of the delightful golden-yellow
sparrows can sometimes be seen on acacias and in adjacent cropfields.
The beauriful White-throated Bee-eater is a breeding summer visitor
to the Asir Tihama. A reliable place to search for this species
is around Muhayl. In nearby villages, bee-eaters can sometimes
be seen perching on telegraph wires.
Drainage from the Sarawat mountains runs predominantly westwards,
but most wadis are dry for much of the year. The larger ones,
such as wadi Al Lith, maintain a good flow in their upper reaches
for long periods throughout the year. These wadis have resident
Hamerkop and attract migrating Black Stork. Birds such as Masked
Shrike may over-winter and Arabian Warblers are fairly common.
One of the most intersting wadis of all, from a bird-watching
viewpoint, is wadi Uranah. This carries treated waste water from
Makkah and is consequently no longer seasonal over much of its
length. The wadi is accessible 80 km from Jeddah along the Makkah
bypass road to Taif. There is significant branching and flooding
in the flatter sections of some parts of the wadi and these wetlands
have created an excellent year-round habitat. White-tailed Plover
and Marsh Harrier over-winter and both Spur-winged Plover and
Black-winged Stilt are breeding residents, with Chestnut-bellied
Sandgrouse guaranteed all year. Ducks include wintering Teal and
Pintail and migrant Garganey and Ferruginous Duck. This area is
excellent for migrants, including Olivaceous and Olive-tree Warbler,
Collared Pratincole, Golden Oriole, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and
possibly Caspian Plover. In addition to Desert Wheatear and possible
Trumpeter Finch, the drier side wadis in this area hold wintering
Red-rumped, Red-tailed and White-crowned Black Wheatears.
Wadis in the foothills closer to the base of the escarpment hold
further interest, with Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting and Grey
Hornbill as new possibilities. In Dhi-Ain, at the Baha ascent
of the escarpment, a permanent stream irrigates a mature banana
and palm plantation. The cultivated area and immediate surroundings
below the uninhabited hill village are lush and tropical and hold
a number of exotic and colourful birds, including Shining Sunbird,
Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Grey Hornbill, Amethyst Starling and Grey-headed
Kingfisher. The latter two species are summer visitors. Such bird
species are mainly African in their distribution and this emphasizes
the strong faunal links of this part of western Arabia with Africa.
Lasting images are of a flock of the beautiful green and yellow
pigeons flying around against the vivid blue sky of early morning
or a kingfisher, with its iridescent cobalt blue wings and tail,
flashing by to seize its prey, of mainly lizards and large insects.
The top quality bird-watching and the sheer beauty of this outstanding
location will draw you back time and time again.
The Escarpment
Wadis on the escarpment itself should also be investigated. A
superb wadi is located 7 km from the check point up the Taif escarpment
road. A walk up this wadi of about 1 km from the road intersection
reveals a rich, well preserved habitat comprising a semi-permanent
stream, extensive old acacias and some mature fig trees, the latter
dotted along the boulder-strewn valley floor. Arabian Woodpecker
and Arabian Serin immediately capture interest as endemics and
the area holds an excellent selection of other birds. In January,
male Cinnamon-breasted Rock Buntings have been noted singing from
prominent song-perches, suggesting imminent breeding. The ancient
camel caravan route up the escarpment is well-preserved in this
valley. Built as-well as a Roman road with jointed slabs of granite
and retaining side-walls and steeped in millennia of virtually
unchronicled history, it is interesting to compare this old camel
track with the nearby modern road.
There are dramatic scenic overhanging cliff-faces from the escarpment
rim all the way south from Taif to Abha and beyond. A typical
one, 75 km north of Baha, holds Griffon Vulture, Fan-tailed Raven
and a pair of Barbary Falcons, with Tristram’s Grackles everywhere.
Raptor watchers at the cliff edges will appreciate the perfect
views of the birds from both above and below.
Some of the birds of the juniper woodlands on the escarpment rim
zone have already been mentioned. Elsewhere, the highlands, with
attractive walled terraces around rich fertile fields, have been
extensively cultivated for around 2500 years. Surrounding areas
are home to Red-breasted and South Arabian Wheatear. The clement
year-round weather in these highlands is similar to the Mediterranean
summer and this image is completed with breeding Red-rumped Swallow
and Hoopoe. The endemic Philby’s Rock Partridge also occurs in
the wilder sections.
The Jebel Souda section of the Asir National Park, near Abha,
will greatly repay investigation. At least five bird species endemic
to the Arabian peninsula can be seen during a couple of hours
of early morning bird-watching on Souda. These include Yemen Linnet
and Yemen Thrush, which are both quite common in the junipers
on the plateau near the rim. By visiting the main overlook close
to the car park just after sunrise, the shyer Arabian Red-legged
Partridge can normally be seen feeding on the ground close to
the rim. Small coveys of these birds occasionally fly across the
rim zone. From a spectacular cliff overlook close to the luxury
hotel on Souda, one can also expect good views of the diminutive
Yemen Serin picking around the vegetation clinging to the precipitous
rock faces in its search for seeds.
Just south of Tanuma, between Baha and Abha, the waterfall of
Al Dahna and the lush small valley are perfect compact places
to bird, conveniently located just over a 100 m from the main
road. Amethyst Starling, Little Rock Thrush, Yemen Thrush, Alpine
Swift and White-breasted White-eye all occur. The premium birds
here are Spotted Eagle Owl and Asir Magpie. Restricted entirely
to the mountains of south-western Saudi Arabia, the Asir Magpie
(Pica pica asirensis) is a separate race from its northern relative
and has a distinctive call and heavier bill. Even the endangered
Bald Ibis has been recently reported in winter from this location.
Wadi Turabah is one of the few larger wadis draining eastwards.
The upper reaches of this wadi are breathtakingly beautiful with
permanent water and resident Hamerkop. Typical birds include Palestine
sunbird and South Arabian Wheatear; Verreaux’s Eagle occur here
and the Grey-headed Kingfisher is a breeding summer visitor.
The Plateau
Moving eastwards from the escarpment mountains, there is an extensive,
high flat plain, sloping gently eastwards. The main vegetation
here is scattered acacia trees and milkweed shrubs.
During winter months, this gently sloping high plateau receives
some rainfall. Several seasonal wadis such as Wadi Bishyan, east
of Taif, drain eastwards from the mountains. The area around Wadi
Bishyan supports a greater density of fairly tall acacia trees,
producing striking visual images reminiscent of the more arid
areas of East Africa. In this kind of habitat, large raptors such
as wintering Imperial Eagles and perhaps even Lappet-faced Vultures
may be seen. A rubbish dump down the Haden road is a good place
to look for these majestic birds and other commoner raptors, such
as Egyptian Vulture and Steppe Eagle.