Few people think of Saudi Arabia as a travel destination for eco-tourists
and yet the country contains many fascinating wildlife habitats,
including a number that have remained relatively undisturbed.
Whether one is interested in marinelife, plantlife; invertebrates
such as butterflies and other insects; reptiles, birds, mammals
or other animals, it is likely that intelligent exploration will
surprise and delight those who make the effort, and will open
up a whole new dimension to one’s perception of this vast country.
Eco-tourism in Saudi Arabia is primarily focussed on internal
travel by residents to areas of interest from a wildlife viewpoint.
Despite the fact that it is not an international destination,
within the general sense of tourism marketing, it would be a mistake
to under-estimate the economic or social value of the country’s
domestic tourism sector or of the role that nature and wildlife
can play in this.
Saudi Arabia’s impressive natural beauty was captivatingly portrayed
in the three-part television series, Arabia Sand Sea Sky, which
was broadcast all over the world and won major international awards
for its wildlife photography and production standards. The fact
that such films can be made in Saudi Arabia is an important indicator
of just how valuable the country’s wildlife is, both as a national
resource and as a vital factor in the survival of many Arabian
species.
Bird-watching
Saudi Arabia’s birds are among the best studied aspects of its
wildlife. The Atlas of the Breeding Birds of Arabia (ABBA) project
which has now been running for over ten years has accumulated
much valuable information on the status of the Kingdom’s breeding
birds. The recent publication by BirdLife International of Important
Birds Areas in the Middle East, lists 39 sites in Saudi Arabia
and acknowledges that this may not represent the entire picture
since over 100 sites have been ear-marked by NCWCD for protection
and many of these are not well known from an ornithological viewpoint
but may merit inclusion at a later date. Highlights of bird-watching
in west and south-west Saudi Arabia have been reviewed in Arabian
Wildlife in a two-part article on the subject, published in Vol
1, no 2 and in this issue. Other areas will be discussed in future
issues. A brief summary of the major sites is given in the table
on the opposite page .
If contemplating a special journey within Saudi Arabia in order
to enjoy the country’s natural attractions, then these are some
of the places that are worth visiting. There are of course many
others and almost anywhere off the beaten track will reward investigation.
Needless to say, proper customary, safety and regulatory procedures
should always be followed. If in doubt about a certain area enquiries
should be made beforehand. If planning to visit any of the protected
areas then permission should first be obtained from the NCWCD
(Tel: 01 441 8700; fax 01 4410797).
Diving
Both snorkelling and scuba diving are well-established activities
in Saudi Arabia with dive-clubs; diving shops; training schools;
and special interest groups vying with each other for members,
customers and pupils. There are national and regional diving regulations
which should be checked out with a local dive-shop prior to any
underwater explorations. Once properly organized, equipped and
trained, the Red Sea offers some superb diving, combined with
opportunities to experience spectacular marinelife, and it remains
one of the most enjoyable and keenly supported outdoor activities
in the Kingdom.
Given that urban and ribbon developments have taken a heavy toll
on coral reefs and marinelife close to the major cities, such
as Jeddah, and that the direct impact of divers on underwater
habitats is an increasing threat to their survival as more and
more people take up the sport, there is a real need to encourage
environmentally friendly diving practices. These include no spearfishing,
use of fixed moorings rather than anchors (which destroy corals);
correct weighting of divers; careful use of flippers; a complete
ban on any form of marinelife collecting whilst diving and the
designation of special ‘no-go’ areas where marinelife is left
undisturbed.
Desert treks
Various locally-based organizations arrange well-planned excursions
into the desert. These trips can present a good opportunity to
become familiar with desert flora and fauna. They are carried
out by groups of four-wheel- drive vehicles, at least one of which
is equipped with navigation equipment. Experienced desert travellers
act as guides and careful planning is undertaken to ensure that
full safety equipment is carried, along with any necessary permits.
Readers wishing to experience the Saudi Arabian desert for the
first time are advised to participate in one of these excursions.
At the other end of the scale in terms of desert exploration in
Saudi Arabia are the special expeditions that are carried out,
frequently involving crossings of the Empty Quarter, the world’s
largest expanse of sand desert. Such trips require professional
expertise and support. They are not to be undertaken lightly.
Flowers
The best time to view flowering plants in Saudi Arabia is undoubtedly
the spring, in areas where winter rains fall. In addition the
highland areas remain moist throughout the year and they have
their own characteristic flora.
Shiela Collonette’s epic book on the wild-flowering plants of
Saudi Arabia contains 1700 pictures of over 1500 species. This
is not the complete flora of the country but it does provide a
vivid illustration of just how rich Arabia is in plantlife – something
that many people find hard to equate with their perception of
an arid wasteland.
Wildflowers are as much in need of our protection as is the abundant
marinelife mentioned above. Habitat loss and degradation through
over-grazing by domestic herds, or by building developments, have
played a major role in restricting the range of many species.
Those that survive deserve better from us than to be picked or
trodden on without consideration for their future.
Fossil Hunting
Saudi Arabia’s modern development has been financed from a form
of fossil-hunting – the recovery of oil from deep below present
ground levels by tapping in to the trapped organic remains of
ancient marinelife. Oil prospectors and geologists use fossils
as indicators of the age of certain rock structures. Saudi Arabia
can be a rich place for fossil hunting and, whilst many fossils
that are found here are the remains of creatures that once lived
in shallow seas covering much of the peninsula, there are also
numerous terrestrial fossils.
Among the most fascinating fossil-bearing areas of Saudi Arabia
are the Miocene mammal-bearing sites on the eastern side of the
country. The area around Ad Dabtiyah (26° 27’02″N; 48°35’24″E)
has been investigated by members of the Department of Palaeontology
of the British Museum who have discovered fossils of a group of
animals which were once spread from Africa, across parts of Europe
and into Asia. The creatures found here include the Asian mastodon,
two species of rhinoceros, a new genus of hominoid regarded as
in ‘the sister group of the great ape’ and remains of palm trees
that suggest the area was once covered in woodland. Crocodile
bones have also been discovered. Further information on this particular
site is available in the following reference: Bulletin of the British Museum (Natural History), Geology. Vol 41 No 4 29, October 1987, in a report entitled: ‘Miocene
geology and palaeontology of Ad Dabtiyah, Saudi Arabia’.
There are sites all over Saudi Arabia that yield interesting fossils.
The above is just one of these fascinating examples.
Cave-exploration and Rock Art
The fact that Arabia enjoyed a wetter and more amenable climate
during the period 8000 to 2000 BC meant that areas of the country
which support little vegetation today, due to the arid climate,
were once suitable for human settlement and supported a wide selection
of wildlife. A systematic study of rock art throughout Saudi Arabia
formed part of a general archaeological survey undertaken during
the 1980s under direction of Dr Abdullah H. Masry, then director
of Antiquities and Museums. The survey revealed a fascinating
wealth of cave drawings which provide an insight into how man
and animals lived at that time. The most frequently figured wild
animals of the rock art are oryx, ibex, camels, ostriches, and
some other birds. Major sites are concentrated in the north, north-west,
west and south-west of the country with important locations at
Jubbah (a short distance inside the Nafud desert) 85 kms north
of Hail; and at Hanakiyah 130 kms east of al-Madina.There is a
site approximately 110 kms west of Riyadh, on the New Makkah Highway,
known among local people as ‘Graffiti Rock’. Animals depicted
on the rock include adult ostrich with chicks of about 3 months
old; a long-horned bovine, ibex, camels, hyaena, onager, and probably
a leopard.
Baboons
Unlike many animals whose numbers have followed an inverse relationship
to the rise of human population, baboons have adapted to the presence
of man, and their numbers have increased locally, as a result
of increased food supply. Thus, the baboons that one sees on the
mountain roads of south-western Saudi Arabia are no longer afraid
of people but they are still part of a wild population. Their
social life has been closely investigated by NCWCD biologists
who showed that, unlike their African cousins, the Arabian hamadryas
female baboons pair for life, remaining faithful to a single male.
The males on the other hand gather together a group of females
and thus form quite large family units comprising the father,
several ‘wives’ and their offspring. Baboon numbers used to be
partially controlled by their natural predators, leopard and striped
hyaena but these have been hunted over many years so that they
no longer provide a natural check to baboon numbers. Visitors
to the baboon areas are requested to refrain from feeding the
baboons. It is hoped that they will gradually adopt more natural
behaviour.
Turtle-watching
A green turtle lumbering ashore on one of the nesting beaches
in the Red Sea or Arabian Gulf may not have been back to that
place since its birth, when it climbed out of the sand as a vulnerable
hatchling, possibly as long as 60 years ago. Whilst turtles depend
upon being able to rear their young by burying their eggs on sandy
beaches, above the tide-line, this is also where they are at their
most vulnerable. It is almost as if the traumatic experience of
running the gauntlet of marauding gulls, foxes, crabs, groupers
and sharks, as young hatchlings trying to make their way out to
the relative safety of the open sea, formed such a strong impression
upon them that it takes the irrepressible instincts of breeding
to return to such a dangerous place.
During the lives of these ancient and magnificent maturing reptiles
the impact of man upon their natural world has increased significantly.
Nevertheless, they have survived, and after running the gamut
of monofilament fishing nets, fish and shrimp trawls, threats
from increasingly fast and large commercial ships, pollution and
loss of inshore feeding grounds, the males and females finally
congregate in the shallow waters close to their traditional nesting
beaches. In the Arabian Gulf, they start to come ashore in April
and continue to do so for several months. It is an incredibly
moving sight to watch the old females emerging from the moonlit
waves in order to struggle up the beach, carrying their heavy
load; and then to see the care with which they select a nesting
site and delicately place their pearly white eggs in the beautifully
excavated egg chamber.
Given the effort that they have made to reach their nesting beaches
and the continued threats to their survival, the last thing that
any of us would want is that man’s love for turtles, and our inquistiveness
about their behaviour, should itself pose an additional threat
to their lives. Thus ‘turtle-watching’ per se has to be a very
carefully controlled activity. In the event that you come across
nesting turtles on unprotected sites, then great care should be
taken not to disturb them. In practice, what this means is that
no lights should be shone towards the sea (discouraging other
turtles from coming ashore), noise and movement should be minimized,
and one should keep away from nesting turtles until they have
completed their excavations and commenced chambering, immediately
prior to egg-laying. At that stage a quiet approach will not put
them off their task but one should take care not to disturb their
efforts and it is enough to simply lie on the warm sand and soak
in the timeless scene, like something from a prehistoric world.
When the egg-laying is completed the turtles cover their eggs,
energetically scooping or flinging the sand back over them as
they climb out of the deep pit and crawl back down the beach and
into the welcoming waves.
Nature Photography
Winter and spring are probably the best periods for nature photography
in Saudi Arabia. An understanding of the animals, their natural
behaviour and their habitats is essential for good wildlife photography.
Professional wildlife cameramen, whose living depends upon bringing
home stunning close-ups of animals, are among the first to ensure
that their actions do not disturb the creatures that they are
photographing. Thus for example, a good wildlife photographer
will never force a bird to leave its nest long enough for eggs
or chicks to over-heat (or become too cold), or for predators
to leap in and attack the nest. Such photographers firmly believe
that the animal comes before their own desire to take the ultimate
picture. Amateur cameramen are often not quite so well versed
in the etiquette of nature photography but it is hoped that readers
of this article will aspire to the ranks of the professionals
– at least in their caring approach to wildlife. This is also
a hobby that requires great patience, often having to remain still
for hours in order to take a single picture. If choice of locality
is combined with a knowledge of what to expect there at a particular
time of year, the results can be well worth the effort. Study
the table of recommended locations for bird-watching and time
your visits to coincide with particular events in the natural
calendar, such as nesting time, or spring or autumn migrations.
Equipment for nature photography is continually improving and
Arabian Wildlife magazine runs regular features on special techniques
or items of equipment that can enhance efforts. Finally, remember
to enter your best wildlife pictures in the Arabian Wildlife Photographer
of the Year Competition!
USEFUL ADDRESSES: The National Commission for Wildlife Conservation and Development
(NCWCD),
P O Box 61681, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.
CLICK HERE FOR THE GUIDE TO BIRD AND WILDLIFE WATCHING IN SAUDI
ARABIA