Oman can offer a compelling sense of exploration and discovery,
and a wildlife holiday that few would imagine possible. Tourism
aimed specifically at those interested in the natural environment,
or eco-tourism, may be the keystone to the future of the industry
in Oman. Thoughtfully planned and carefully managed it will allow
for the generation of revenue without clashing with conservation
concerns and cultural heritage.
The stark beauty and wide range of contrasting landscapes that
characterize the country create habitats for a wealth of wildlife.
Among the variety of fauna and flora are millions of migrant wading
birds passing through year after year; entire marine ecosystems
unique to science; mountain, desert and shoreline plants of stunning
diversity; desert dwellers of surprising abundance; endangered
Arabian mammals like leopard and oryx; seashells of exquisite
nature; coral reefs that stud the sea with vibrant colours; innumerable
endemic fish; whales and dolphins from coast to coast and turtles
that nest in numbers matched by no other country on the planet.
And alongside the natural wealth is a culture as rich as the sea,
mountain and desert environments with which it has arisen.
The Mountainous North
Wadis dissect the mountains of northern and central Oman and provide
the only means of access to many areas. While most wadis are seasonal,
some have a constant flow of water, attracting settlement and
also wildlife. Red foxes are frequent evening visitors, skirting
the villages in search of scraps. Mountain gazelle are still a
regular sight and their ‘v’ shaped hoof prints (distinct from
the two parallel imprints left by a goat hoof) are easy to find
in sandy areas. Hares, which include a race unique to Oman, small
rodents and even wolves may still be found, although the latter
are more likely to be seen further south.
To access many of the areas where wildlife is more commonly encountered
means leaving your vehicle and continuing on foot. Blue-headed
agamid lizards will scurry from sun-drenched rocks at your approach
and ‘water snakes’ (most commonly, racers) will lie in wait in,
or at the edge of, pools for unsuspecting fish, other reptiles,
Arabian toads and even rodents that dare to venture to the water’s
edge to drink. Bats can be found in many of the extensive cave
systems and birds of prey such as Egyptian Vultures and, for the
lucky, Golden Eagles, circle above magnificent mountain panoramas.
A trip to see the remarkable juniper forests at the 3000 metre
summit of Jabal Shams (‘Sun Mountain’) is well worth the effort,
if only to take in the breathtaking views on top of Arabia’s highest
peak. Here is one of the few places in the peninsula where snowfall
is not unexpected in winter months. Visitors to Oman’s northern
mountains should also keep a vigilant eye open for the nimble-footed
tahr, a rare and shy goat-like animal confined and unique to this
small, mountainous part of the world.
Deserts
The deserts of Oman vary from the rolling sand seas of the Wahiba,
with classic photogenic dunes of rich gold, to the flat stony
Jiddat al Harasis in central Oman and the Rub al-Khali or ‘Empty
Quarter’ further south, where individual mountains of sand rise
from a flat desert and stretch endlessly across the border into
Saudi Arabia. However, far from being empty, the desert is host
to a surprising amount of wildlife. Caracal lynx, sand foxes and
wild sand cats, with hair-covered feet that help provide grip
in soft sand, are some of the larger predators. Rheem gazelle,
Arabia’s largest gazelle, also seem to prefer sandy regions. On
rocky outcrops, such as the Huqf escarpment to the east of the
Jiddat al Harasis plains, live Nubian ibex. They are also found
in more mountainous areas in Oman. The males, in particular, are
an impressive sight, sporting magnificent horns with which they
spar for females. The desert provides habitat too for skinks,
lizards and geckos and their more deadly cousins, such as the
saw-scales or carpet viper and the horned adder. A host of small
rodents survive the desert heat despite the high metabolic rates
of small mammals. A number of species of gerbils, jirds, jerboas,
mice, shrews and rats have all adapted to life under harsh conditions.
Flocks of Coronetted, Chestnut-bellied, Spotted and Lichtenstein’s
Sandgrouse can be regularly seen at precise times, soaking their
modified breast feathers in precious watering holes and transporting
the stored water to ground nests some distance away. There are
very few people, even those who have visited desert environments
many times, who are not continually surprised and enthralled by
the activity and profusion of wildlife.
White Oryx Project
In the flat stony desert of central Oman live the famous Arabian
oryx. Once hunted to extinction in the wild, the last herds were
seen in this area in the late 1970s. Fortunately a small collection
of zoo animals existed in a number of separate localities around
the world from which suitably mixed herds could be assembled.
Now, reintroduced herds enjoy the protection of the conservation-minded
ways of the local Harasis tribes, members of which have become
their guardian rangers. Vegetation, nourished by sea blown mists,
supports the oryx numbering over 230 animals, many of which were
born in the wild. Some are even second generation wild animals.
World-wide the Arabian or White Oryx Project in Oman is heralded
as one of the most successful animal reintroduction schemes ever
attempted and the entire area where the oryx now roam has been
designated a world heritage park.
Dhofar
Precambrian basement sediments have formed the Dhofar mountains
in the far south of Oman. The mountains and narrow coastal belt
benefit each year from moisture-laden south-west monsoon winds
or khareef. Rains from early July to the end of August and heavy
mists create lush green hillsides and cool temperatures more reminiscent
of a English spring than an Arabian summer. Immediately behind
the mountain range the desert heat continues to scorch the earth.
With obvious reason, this seasonal transition has created a haven
for many forms of wildlife and has made possible spectacular mountain
drives and hikes. The best time to visit is September, when mists
have lifted to reveal the luxuriant green landscape.
The capital of the southern region of Dhofar is Salalah, known
throughout Arabia as ‘The Garden City’. It has the feel of a small
East African coastal town, relaxed, cool and humid and rife with
banana, coconut, sugarcane and papaya plantations. Beyond the
plains of Salalah where frankincense trees grow, rise the wooded
hillsides of Jabal Qara. The vegetation that clads the southern
mountains is unique in Arabia. The dominant and endemic Anogeissus
dhofarica was only scientifically described in 1979 despite its
abundance. Among the vegetation are trees more commonly associated
with Africa and Asia, such as the enormous and bizarre baobab.
There is a population of about 50 baobab trees growing on the
sloping valleys of Wadi Hinna, not far from Salalah. Perhaps these
are a relict population of a once wider distribution of the species
or perhaps they are a reminder of early traders from East Africa.
The desert rose is an attractive and distinctive plant which was
used for medicinal purposes by the Jibbali people of the Dhofar
hills
Although there are no permanent watercourses in Dhofar, during
the monsoon great waterfalls tumble over limestone cliffs into
the sea several hundred feet below, and springs such as those
at Ayn Razat and Ayn Jarsis bubble with freshwater. Pools remain
in many of the wadi beds long after water has ceased to flow,
and, some, such as Wadi Darbat, contain a constant supply of water
for resident and passing wildlife. Heading east from Salalah,
monsoon clouds quickly disperse as they spill over the mountain
tops of the Jabal Samhan. Similarly, Jabal al Qamar to the west
only enjoys monsoon mists and rains during exceptional years.
However, even where the greenery ends, wildlife thrives. Leopard,
caracal, hyaena, wolf and ratel all find territories along with
many others. Hedgehogs and the nocturnal vegetarian porcupines
leave evidence of their presence with a handful of shed quills,
and birds pass through in their thousands.
Where wadis reach the sea, lagoons, or khors, form along the coast,
acting as a focal point for wildlife, especially birds. Reeds
and reedmace typically line the landward rims of the khors while
the salt tolerant mangrove trees spread to seaward in more saline
conditions. Some of the more spectacular birds to frequent Oman
are to be found in khors. The stately flamingo filters food from
the shallow sediments, colourful ducks, storks, stilts, plovers,
sandpipers, egrets and herons wade nearby and the glossy ibis
feeds on insects at the water’s edge. Some of the khors are set
aside as reserve areas where visitors are not allowed. However,
the majority will remain open to the public provided that due
care and respect is paid to the wildlife and its fragile habitat.
To the north-east of Salalah, still in the southern province of
Dhofar, is a beautiful sand beach 30 km in length that sweeps
the bay that is the mouth of Oman’s largest and probably most
spectacular wadi – Wadi Shuwaymiyah. The wadi forms a huge snaking
canyon, sided by dramatic vertical cliffs of white limestone.
Long fingers of porous travertine form stalactites along overhanging
cliff edges and deep permanent pools of sweet water are advertised
by the growth of surrounding vegetation. The scenery is fascinating
and quite breath-taking and the canyons form a natural refuge
for wildlife and may be considered a valuable national nature
reserve. Hyrax, a colonial rodent-like animal that through its
bone structure shows a common ancestry with elephant and rhinoceros,
will issue its warning to others on the approach of human visitors
and dart into the many nooks and crannies between boulders on
the canyon floors. Hyaena, ibex and gazelle are among many other
mammals to be seen and Green Pigeons can be found roosting in
wild fig trees, while owls call at night. Wadi Shuwaymiyah lies
in a remote and difficult region to access. Perhaps this is fortunate,
for the wealth of natural beauty may remain relatively untouched
and undisturbed.
The coast of Dhofar boasts some of the most beautiful beaches
in the Sultanate. At certain times of the year many of these beaches
are criss-crossed by the tracks of turtles that return seasonally
to nest. The beaches below the spectacular headlands and cliffs
of Ra’as Hamar, just half an hour’s drive west of Salalah, is
one spot where it is possible, in late summer months, to watch
both green and loggerhead turtles nesting simultaneously.
Turtle -Watching
There are, in fact, four species of turtle that nest in Oman,
(the highly endangered hawksbill and the rare-for the-region olive
ridley, are the other two), some in world record and globally
significant numbers. The best location for turtle-watching is
about 400 km south-east of Muscat, not far from the dhow-building
port of Sur, at Ra’s al Hadd. Here green turtles nest all year
round in numbers that exceed any other single location in the
Indian Ocean (see Arabian Wildlife, Vol 1, No. 2).
Permits are provided by the Ministry of Regional Municipalities
and Environment for camping in the Ra’s al Hadd area, which has
been designated a national nature reserve. The campsite to which
visitors are restricted is situated at two of the prime nesting
beaches. Turtle -watching tourists are guided by locally employed
turtle wardens from nearby villages, such as Ra’s al Junays. Rules
and regulations are designed to prevent disturbance of the globally
endangered turtles, but still allow for good viewing. The sight
of a full grown female turtle emerging from the sea to lay her
eggs as her ancestors have been doing for the past 90 million
years, is an exciting experience that is not easily forgotten.
Photography is encouraged only at dawn, using natural lighting
so as to avoid disturbance to both nesters and hatchlings. The
best months of the year to watch turtles are August and September.
Nesting numbers are high and the chance of seeing hatchlings is
also very good. However, it is unlikely that you will be disappointed
at any time of the year.
Underwater Oman
There is a wealth of scenery, wildlife, pleasure and opportunity
awaiting divers in the Sultanate of Oman. There is also the constant
promise of discovery of new places, species and phenomena. Much
of the rocky coast and islands of the Sultanate with their many
exciting underwater sites are easily accessible to divers. The
water is warm all year round and the underwater world offers dramatic
scenery, close contact with nature, and great opportunity for
exploratory diving. A lucky few have even dived with whales in
Oman and snorkelling with dolphins is a hobby of those who have
taken time to get to know these intelligent and lovable marine
mammals. There remain many areas that have never been dived before
and knowing that you are the first human being to view a particular
site conveys a sense of excitement and anticipation. The observant
are rewarded with new species of fishes, corals, shells and almost
any other form of marinelife.
Eco-tourism in Oman
The government of Oman, particularly through the Ministry of Regional
Municipalities and Environment, has carried out many scientific
studies and surveys in order to set aside key regions of importance
to wildlife as protected areas. The Directorate General of Nature
Protectorates is in the process of planning legislation and effective
natural reserve systems to ensure the conservation of natural
resources. Similarly, the Directorate General of Tourism is, at
the time of writing, reviewing policies and investigatiing the
possibility of eco-tourism in new areas. Visitors to Oman who
wish to view the natural wildlife and beauty of the country should
be aware that some areas may soon be placed under controlled access
and it is sensible to seek the advice of officials for up-to-
date information.
We should all remember our responsibility to protect Oman’s wildlife
and its range of valuable habitats. As a country new to the concept
of eco-tourism, both the environment and the culture of a distinct
and deserving people require time to adapt to the pressures that
are inevitably forced upon them by the tourism industry. Those
people fortunate enough to explore the Sultanate today will be
the first to acknowledge the need to protect the fragile ecosystems
and the sensitive culture of a beautiful country for those who
will explore and enjoy it in the future.
Useful Addresses for The Sultanate of Oman
All of the tour companies in the Sultanate should be aware of
the rules and regulations governing wildlife observation and visits
to protected areas, but there is really only one that is especially
interested and educated in eco-tourism. Aries Tours, run by Heide Biel from the Al Falaj hotel ( P O Box 2031, Ruwi
112. Tel 968- 702311), is extremely well equipped to cater for
almost any of the varied preferences of wildlife enthusiasts.
The Historical Association of Oman (PO. Box 3941, Ruwi 112, Oman) is a non-governmental organization
that has a special interest in the natural history of the Sultanate.
They will also be able to direct you to specialiast organizations
such as the Horticultural Society, P O Box 1591, CPO 111, Oman.
Tel 968- 797252.
Birdwatchers can obtain information and copies of the Oman Bird
List from the Oman Bird Records Committee, P O Box 246, Muscat 113, Oman.
The Oman Natural History Museum (ONHM) (P O Box 668, Muscat 113, Oman; Tel 968-605400) houses
superb displays of most of the wildlife to be found in Oman, including
a section on marine fauna and flora and a separate and outstanding
whale hall. A newly formed volunteer whale rescue team, contactable
through ONHM, may be able to provide additional information on
where and when to watch whales and dolphins at sea.
Diving anywhere in Oman is monitored by the Oman Diving Federation (P O Box 199, Medinat Qaboos 115, Oman; Tel 968-950261) through
the Oman Dive Centre (ODC) at Bandar Jissah. Permits must be obtained
from the ODC before entering the underwater world (at a current
daily rate of one Omani rial). The ODC is extremely well equipped
and offers overnight camping trips and traditional dhow cruises
among its range of dive excursions.
The Arabian Seas Expedition has produced a half hour film on diving in Oman, aimed at the
diving tourist. Films are available from P O Box 50119, Medinat
Qaboos 115, Oman; Tel 968-736230 or through the Directorate General
of Tourism, P O Box 550, Muscat 113, Oman; Tel 968- 774331.